Why Your First Clay Pot Looks Like a Wonky Planet (And How a Water Glass Fixes It)

The Wonky Planet Phenomenon: Why Beginners Struggle with Symmetry

If you've ever taken a pottery class or tried your hand at the wheel at home, you know the feeling: you start with a lump of clay, full of hope, and end up with something that looks less like a bowl and more like a lopsided planet from a cartoon. The sides bulge unevenly, the rim wobbles, and the base might be thicker than the walls. This isn't a sign of failure—it's a universal first step. The core reason is that clay is a responsive material; it moves according to the pressure you apply, and beginners haven't yet developed the muscle memory to apply that pressure evenly. Your hands, though well-intentioned, are not perfectly steady, and your fingers may press harder on one side than the other. The wheel's rotation amplifies these small differences, turning a slight imbalance into a visible wobble. Additionally, many beginners don't center the clay properly from the start. Centering is the foundation of symmetry: if the clay is even a few millimeters off-center, the spinning motion will exaggerate that offset. The result is a pot that looks like it's trying to become a planet—bulging on one side, thin on the other. But here's the good news: this problem has a simple, proven fix that uses something you already have in your kitchen. And understanding why it happens is the first step to mastering the craft.

The Physics of Lopsidedness

Think of the spinning clay as a mass in motion. When you apply pressure with your hands, the clay deforms. If your left hand presses slightly harder than your right, the clay will bulge on the left side. The wheel's rotation at 100-150 RPM means this bulge spins around, creating a visible wobble. The same principle applies to hand-building: if you roll a coil unevenly, the pot's walls will vary in thickness, leading to asymmetry during assembly. The key insight is that symmetry requires consistent, balanced force. Your hands must act as a pair of equal and opposite pressures. Many beginners use their palms or fingers in a way that introduces uneven force—often because they're trying to control the clay too tightly. Relaxing your grip and using your whole arm, not just your wrists, can help. Also, the clay's moisture content matters: overly wet clay is too soft to hold shape, while stiff clay resists movement, causing you to compensate with uneven pressure. A good rule of thumb is to keep the clay at a consistency where it feels like firm butter—pliable but not sticky.

Another factor is the wheel speed. Beginners often spin the wheel too fast, thinking it will help shape the clay faster. In reality, higher speeds increase the centrifugal force, making the clay more likely to wobble. Starting at a moderate speed (around 100 RPM) and slowing down as you shape the pot gives you more control. For hand-building, the equivalent is working on a banding wheel that rotates slowly, allowing you to see and correct asymmetry as you go. The water glass trick, which we'll explore in the next section, works by providing a stable, straight reference that your hands can follow—like training wheels for your pottery.

A Composite Scenario: Sarah's First Pot

Consider Sarah, a beginner who took her first pottery class. She centered the clay reasonably well, but as she pulled up the walls, her right hand consistently pressed harder than her left. The pot developed a bulge on the right side. When she tried to even it out by pressing more on the left, she overcorrected, creating a new bulge. Frustrated, she ended up with a pot that looked like a wonky planet. Her instructor then showed her the water glass technique: placing a straight-sided glass inside the pot as a reference. By pressing the clay against the glass, Sarah could feel where the walls were uneven. She gently pushed out the thin spots and compressed the bulges. The result was a much more symmetrical pot. This simple tool provided the consistent, straight surface her hands couldn't yet create on their own. Over the next few sessions, Sarah practiced without the glass, but the muscle memory from using it helped her develop a feel for even pressure. By her fifth class, she could throw a reasonably straight cylinder without assistance.

The water glass trick is not a crutch—it's a teaching tool. It gives you immediate feedback on where your pressure is uneven. When you feel the clay pressing harder against one side of the glass, you know that side is thicker. You can then adjust your hands accordingly. This real-time feedback accelerates learning because it trains your hands to apply balanced force. Many professional potters still use a similar technique when throwing large forms, using a rib or a sponge to feel for evenness. The principle is the same: use a rigid reference to guide your hands until your muscle memory takes over. So if your first pot looks like a wonky planet, don't despair. Grab a water glass, and you'll be on your way to rounder, more functional pots in no time.

How a Water Glass Becomes Your Best Pottery Teacher

The idea that a simple water glass can fix your lopsided pot might sound too good to be true, but it's grounded in basic physics and the way our hands learn. When you're throwing or hand-building, your brain is trying to coordinate dozens of small muscle movements simultaneously. It's like learning to ride a bike—you wobble until your body figures out the balance. The water glass acts as a training wheel: it provides a stable, straight reference that your hands can feel and follow. Here's how it works in practice. After you've formed your basic cylinder or bowl shape, but before you finish, take a straight-sided drinking glass (a pint glass or a tall, narrow water glass works best). Place it inside the pot, gently pressing it against the clay walls. The glass should be clean and dry. As you rotate the pot on the wheel or by hand, you'll feel where the clay presses harder against the glass—those are the spots where the wall is thicker or bulging outward. Conversely, areas where the glass doesn't touch the clay indicate thin spots or indentations. By pressing the clay against the glass from the outside, you can even out the thickness. This process is called "ribbing" or "smoothing with a reference." The glass essentially becomes a rigid profile that forces the clay into a consistent shape.

Step-by-Step: The Water Glass Correction Method

To apply this technique, follow these steps. First, throw or hand-build your pot to a rough shape. Don't worry about perfection at this stage. Second, stop the wheel or set the pot on a stable surface. Third, choose a straight-sided glass that fits comfortably inside your pot without touching the bottom if possible. Fourth, with one hand inside the pot holding the glass, use your other hand to support the outside wall. Gently press the glass outward, feeling for resistance. Fifth, rotate the pot a quarter turn and repeat. Do this until you've gone all the way around. You'll notice that some areas require more pressure than others. Spend extra time on bulges, pressing them inward, and on thin spots, supporting them from the outside while pressing the glass outward. Sixth, once the walls feel even, remove the glass and finish shaping your pot as desired. You can use a sponge or rib to smooth the surface. The entire process takes just a few minutes but can dramatically improve symmetry. For hand-builders, this technique works especially well with slab-built cylinders or coiled pots. Simply place the glass inside and use it as a form to press the walls against.

The reason this works so well is that it bypasses your untrained muscle memory. Instead of trying to feel evenness through your fingertips (which is a skill that takes months to develop), you use the glass as a sensor. The glass doesn't lie—it's a straight, rigid object. When the clay presses evenly against it, you know the walls are even. This immediate, objective feedback is invaluable for learning. It also helps you identify where you tend to apply uneven pressure. For example, if you consistently find that the left side of your pots is thicker, you can consciously work on lightening your left hand's pressure. Over time, you'll need the glass less often, but it remains a useful diagnostic tool even for experienced potters. One caution: make sure the glass doesn't have a flared lip or any texturing that could mark the clay. Use a simple, smooth glass. Also, clean the glass between uses to prevent clay from drying on it and scratching your pot. With practice, you'll find the water glass becomes an extension of your hand, guiding you toward symmetry.

Why This Works: The Feedback Loop

The water glass creates a closed feedback loop. You apply pressure, the glass tells you if it's even, you adjust, and you try again. This loop is essential for skill acquisition. Without it, you're just guessing. Many beginners don't realize how uneven their pots are until they see them after trimming or bisque firing. By then, it's too late to fix the asymmetry. The water glass gives you real-time correction at the most critical stage—when the clay is still wet and malleable. It also teaches you to use your tools intentionally. Pottery is not just about your hands; it's about how you use tools to achieve results. The water glass is a tool that costs nothing and is always available. It's a perfect example of working smarter, not harder. So next time you're at the wheel and your pot starts to look like a wonky planet, reach for a water glass. It's the simplest, most effective fix for beginner asymmetry.

Core Principles of Symmetry: Centering, Pressure, and Consistency

Before you can fix a wonky pot, you need to understand the three pillars of symmetrical pottery: centering, even pressure, and consistent wall thickness. Centering is the most fundamental—if your clay isn't centered on the wheel, everything you do will be lopsided. Think of it like a car tire that's out of balance; at speed, it wobbles. The same happens with clay. To center properly, you need to apply firm, steady pressure with both hands, using your body weight rather than just arm strength. Many beginners make the mistake of using only their fingers, which leads to fatigue and uneven pressure. Instead, lock your elbows against your body and lean into the clay. The goal is to create a symmetrical cone that spins without visible wobble. This can take several minutes of practice, but it's time well spent. A well-centered lump of clay will feel smooth and stable under your hands, with no bumps or vibrations. Once centered, you can open the clay and begin shaping.

Pressure and Consistency: The Dynamic Duo

Even pressure is the second pillar. When you pull up the walls, your hands must apply equal force on both sides. Imagine you're holding a sandwich between your palms—you want the pressure to be uniform. In practice, this means using your whole hand, not just fingertips, and keeping your wrists straight. A common mistake is to use the palm of one hand and the fingers of the other, which creates an imbalance. Instead, both hands should be in similar positions, one inside and one outside, with fingers pointing in the same direction. The inside hand should be slightly cupped, while the outside hand supports the wall. As you pull upward, maintain that same pressure all the way to the rim. Beginners often release pressure at the top, resulting in a flared rim. Practice pulling up slowly, counting to three as you go, and keep your hands moving together. The third pillar is consistent wall thickness. Uneven walls are the main cause of asymmetry because thin areas collapse while thick areas bulge. To check thickness, use a needle tool to poke through the wall at different points—you'll quickly see where you need to adjust. Aim for walls that are about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick for small pots, and slightly thicker for larger ones. The water glass technique we described earlier is excellent for ensuring even thickness, as it forces the walls to conform to a uniform shape.

Another aspect of consistency is the clay's moisture content. If your clay is too wet, it will be too soft to hold its shape, and your hands will sink into it unevenly. If it's too stiff, it will resist your pressure, causing you to compensate with uneven force. The ideal consistency is like a firm, pliable dough—it should hold an impression but not be sticky. During throwing, keep a small sponge and water bowl nearby to moisten your hands and the clay as needed. But be careful: too much water can make the clay sloppy. A good practice is to use a spray bottle to mist the clay lightly rather than dunking it. For hand-building, the same principles apply. When rolling coils, keep them uniform in thickness by using your palms and rolling evenly from the center outwards. When making slabs, use rolling guides (two sticks of equal thickness) to ensure even thickness. Consistency is king in pottery, and it's achieved through deliberate practice and the use of tools like the water glass.

The Role of Practice and Patience

No amount of theory can replace hours at the wheel. But understanding the principles gives you a roadmap. Each time you throw a pot, focus on one aspect: centering, then pressure, then thickness. Don't try to fix everything at once. The water glass is a great tool for the pressure and thickness aspects, but centering is a skill you must develop on your own. A helpful exercise is to center a lump of clay, then remove it and re-center it repeatedly until you can do it in under 30 seconds. This builds muscle memory. Similarly, practice pulling up walls without trying to make a pot—just pull up a cylinder, collapse it, and start again. This reduces the pressure to produce something perfect and allows you to focus on technique. Remember, every potter started where you are. The wonky planet is a rite of passage. Embrace it, learn from it, and use the water glass to accelerate your progress. With consistent practice, you'll soon be throwing pots that are round, even, and ready for the kiln.

Tools of the Trade: Comparing Methods for Achieving Symmetry

While the water glass is a fantastic beginner tool, it's not the only method for achieving symmetry. Experienced potters use a variety of tools, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Understanding these options helps you choose the right tool for your skill level and project. In this section, we'll compare the water glass technique with other common methods: using metal ribs, wooden ribs, sponge ribs, and the traditional hand-only approach. We'll also discuss the economics and maintenance of each. The goal is to give you a toolkit of techniques so you can adapt to different situations. Remember, no single tool is best for everything. The best potters are versatile and know when to use each method.

Comparison Table: Symmetry Tools

As the table shows, the water glass is uniquely suited for beginners because it's free and provides clear feedback. However, as you progress, you'll want to incorporate ribs for more refined shaping. Metal ribs, for example, are excellent for compressing the bottom of a pot to prevent cracking, while wooden ribs are ideal for shaping gentle curves like those on a bowl. Sponge ribs are great for the final smoothing before removing the pot from the wheel. Each tool has its place, and the best potters use a combination. For instance, you might start with a water glass to get the walls even, then switch to a metal rib to refine the shape, and finish with a sponge for a smooth surface.

Tool Maintenance and Economics

Taking care of your tools is important for consistent results. Metal ribs should be cleaned and dried after use to prevent rust. Wooden ribs can be oiled occasionally to prevent cracking. Sponge ribs should be rinsed and squeezed dry to avoid bacterial growth. The water glass, being from your kitchen, should be washed normally, but be careful not to use it for drinking after it's been used for clay—clay particles can be abrasive. In terms of cost, the water glass is the most economical option. A basic set of ribs might cost $15–30, which is a small investment for a serious hobbyist. Many pottery studios provide basic tools, so you can try before you buy. If you're just starting, stick with the water glass and your hands for the first few sessions. Once you feel comfortable, consider adding a metal rib and a wooden rib to your kit. They will give you more control and help you achieve shapes that a water glass can't. Remember, the tool is only as good as the hand that wields it. Practice with each tool to understand its feel and how the clay responds. Over time, you'll develop preferences and a sense of which tool to reach for in different situations.

Growth Mechanics: From Wonky Planet to Consistent Pottery

Improving your pottery is not just about fixing one pot—it's about building a skill that grows over time. The journey from wonky planet to consistent, pleasing pottery involves understanding how your brain and body learn, setting up a practice routine, and tracking your progress. Many beginners give up after a few lopsided pots because they think they lack talent. But pottery is a skill, not a gift. With deliberate practice, anyone can improve. The key is to focus on the process, not the product, especially in the beginning. Each pot you throw teaches you something, even if it ends up as a lump of recycled clay. In this section, we'll explore how to structure your practice for maximum growth, how to use feedback loops (like the water glass) to accelerate learning, and how to stay motivated when progress feels slow.

Building a Practice Routine

Consistency matters more than duration. Practicing for 30 minutes every day is more effective than three hours once a week. Short, frequent sessions help your brain consolidate muscle memory. In each session, focus on one specific skill: centering, pulling up walls, or using the water glass. Don't try to complete a pot every time; instead, throw a cylinder, check it with the water glass, then recycle the clay and do it again. This repetition is the fastest way to improve. Keep a notebook to record what you worked on and what you noticed. For example, you might write: "Day 1: Centering took 2 minutes, still wobble on left side. Day 2: Reduced wobble by locking elbows. Day 3: Centered in 45 seconds." This tracking provides tangible evidence of progress, which is motivating. Another effective technique is to video record yourself from the side. Watching the video can reveal asymmetries that you don't feel at the wheel. You might see that your left hand is drifting outward as you pull up, causing a bulge. The water glass technique can then be used to correct that specific issue.

Another growth mechanic is to vary your practice conditions. Throw pots of different sizes, use different clay bodies, and try both wheel throwing and hand-building. Each variation challenges your skills in new ways and prevents plateaus. For instance, throwing a tall, narrow cylinder is harder than a short, wide bowl. Mastering the cylinder will make bowls easier. Similarly, hand-building with coils improves your ability to control pressure and consistency, which transfers to the wheel. Cross-training like this builds a well-rounded foundation. Also, don't neglect the finishing stages—trimming, decorating, and glazing. A well-thrown pot can be ruined by a bad trim, so practice trimming as well. The water glass can even be used during trimming: place it inside the pot to support the walls while you trim the foot, preventing distortion. As you become more advanced, you'll find that the principles of symmetry apply to all stages of pottery making.

Staying Motivated Through Plateaus

Every potter hits plateaus where progress seems to stop. This is normal and usually means your brain is consolidating what you've learned before moving to the next level. During plateaus, change your routine. Try a new technique, like throwing off the hump or making lidded pots. Or, take a break for a day or two and come back fresh. Often, you'll find that your skills have improved without conscious effort. Another motivator is to keep a portfolio of your pots, even the wonky ones. Looking back at your first pot after a month of practice can be incredibly encouraging. You'll see how far you've come. Share your progress with a community, either online or in a local studio. Feedback from others can provide new insights and keep you accountable. Remember, every professional potter has a stack of lopsided pots in their past. The difference is they kept going. The water glass is just one tool in your growth journey. Use it, but also trust your hands to learn. With time, your pots will become more symmetrical, and you'll find joy in the process, not just the product.

Pitfalls and Mistakes: What Usually Goes Wrong and How to Avoid It

Even with the best tools and intentions, things go wrong. Understanding common pitfalls helps you anticipate and avoid them. In this section, we'll cover the most frequent mistakes beginners make when trying to achieve symmetry, and how the water glass technique can mitigate or prevent each one. We'll also discuss mistakes specific to using the water glass itself, so you can use it effectively. The goal is to turn errors into learning opportunities rather than frustrations.

Mistake #1: Over-Correction with the Water Glass

Some beginners, once they discover the water glass technique, become overzealous. They press the glass too hard against the walls, thinking more pressure will fix things faster. But excessive pressure can thin the walls too much, creating weak spots that collapse later. It can also distort the shape, pushing the clay outward in an unnatural way. The key is to use gentle, consistent pressure. Think of the glass as a guide, not a ram. You want to feel the clay touch the glass evenly, not force it against the glass. If you feel resistance, ease off. Another over-correction is to use the glass too early, before the clay is even roughly centered. The water glass works best after you've formed a basic cylinder or bowl shape. If you use it on a lump that's not centered, you'll just reinforce the asymmetry. Always center and open the clay first, then use the glass to refine. Also, avoid using the glass on clay that's too wet. The glass can stick and create suction, pulling the wall inward when you remove it. If this happens, wet the glass slightly before inserting it, or use a thin plastic bag over the glass as a release layer.

Mistake #2: Neglecting the Bottom of the Pot

Beginners often focus on the walls and ignore the bottom. But a pot with uneven bottom thickness will wobble when placed on a table, and it can crack during drying or firing. The water glass can help here too. After evening the walls, place the glass inside and press down gently on the bottom while supporting the outside. This compresses the bottom and ensures it's flat. Alternatively, use a wooden rib to compress the bottom from the inside. Another common bottom mistake is leaving too much clay at the base, which makes the pot heavy and unbalanced. When you open the clay, leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of clay at the bottom, depending on the pot size. As you pull up the walls, the bottom will naturally thin slightly. Check bottom thickness with a needle tool before finishing. If it's too thick, you can trim it later, but it's better to get it right on the wheel. The water glass can also be used to check bottom thickness: if the glass sits unevenly on the bottom, you need to compress or adjust. A flat, even bottom is essential for a functional pot.

Mistake #3: Rushing the Process

Pottery is a meditation in patience. Rushing leads to mistakes. Beginners often try to complete a pot in one go, without stopping to check symmetry or thickness. This is a recipe for a wonky planet. Instead, work in stages: center, open, pull up halfway, check with water glass, pull up to full height, check again, shape the rim, check again. Each check takes only a few seconds and can save you from a lopsided disaster. If you feel the clay starting to wobble, stop the wheel and reassess. It's better to recycle a pot that's gone wrong than to fight it and end up with a mess. Another rushing mistake is not wedging the clay properly before starting. Wedging removes air bubbles and ensures uniform consistency. If you skip this step, you'll have uneven spots that cause asymmetry. Spend 5 minutes wedging your clay, and you'll save time later. The same applies to hand-building: properly prepare your slabs or coils before assembly. Rushing through preparation is a false economy. Slow down, breathe, and enjoy the process. Your pots will thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions About Fixing Wonky Pots

This section addresses common questions that arise when beginners try to correct asymmetric pots. The answers are designed to be practical and actionable, drawing on the principles we've discussed. Whether you're using the water glass technique or other methods, these FAQs will help you troubleshoot specific issues.

Q: My pot is already leather-hard. Can I still fix the asymmetry?

Yes, but with limitations. Leather-hard clay is stiffer and less forgiving. You can use a metal rib or a surform tool to shave off high spots, but this requires a steady hand. Alternatively, you can add soft clay to thin areas and blend it in with a rib. The water glass technique works best on wet clay, but you can try it on leather-hard clay if you're careful. Dampen the glass slightly to reduce friction, and use gentle pressure. However, it's easier to correct asymmetry while the clay is still wet. If your pot is already leather-hard and the asymmetry is severe, consider recycling the clay and starting over. It's a hard lesson, but it's better than fighting with a pot that will likely crack or look poor. For future pots, check symmetry at the wet stage using the water glass to avoid this situation.

Q: The water glass leaves marks on my pot. How do I prevent this?

Marks can occur if the glass has a textured surface or if the clay is too soft. Use a smooth, clean glass without any etching or patterns. Also, make sure the glass is dry before inserting it. If the clay is very soft, the glass may stick and leave a ring when removed. To prevent this, wet the glass slightly, or use a thin plastic bag over the glass as a liner. Another option is to use a metal or wooden rib instead of a glass for the final smoothing. The marks can usually be smoothed out with a sponge or rib after removing the glass. If you're concerned about marks, practice on a test piece first to see how your clay reacts.

Q: I can't find a straight-sided glass. What else can I use?

Any straight-sided, rigid cylindrical object will work. A metal can (like a soup can) with the label removed is a good substitute. Make sure the edges are smooth to avoid cutting the clay. A plastic container, like a yogurt cup, can work, but it may be less rigid. You can also use a pottery rib that has a straight edge. The key is that the object has a consistent diameter and a smooth surface. If you're using a metal can, wash it thoroughly and check for sharp edges. The water glass is just a convenient option because it's usually available in every kitchen. Don't be afraid to improvise with what you have.

Q: How often should I use the water glass technique?

Use it as often as you need to. For beginners, I recommend using it on every pot until you can consistently throw a straight cylinder without it. This might be 10-20 pots. After that, use it occasionally as a diagnostic tool when you feel your symmetry slipping. Even experienced potters use ribs and reference tools to maintain consistency on large or complex forms. The water glass is not a crutch; it's a training aid. The goal is to internalize the feeling of even pressure so that you don't need the glass. But there's no shame in using it forever if it helps you achieve better pots. Some potters keep a glass at their wheel at all times for quick checks. It's a simple, effective tool that costs nothing, so why not use it?

Q: My pot is still wonky after using the water glass. What am I doing wrong?

Several factors could be at play. First, make sure the glass itself is straight. A warped glass will give you false feedback. Second, check that you're applying even pressure while using the glass. If you press harder on one side, you'll still get asymmetry. Third, the problem might be in the centering or the opening stage. If the base is off-center, the walls will be off regardless of the glass. Re-center the clay and try again. Fourth, the clay might be too wet or too dry. Adjust the moisture content. Fifth, you might be using the glass too late in the process, after the clay has started to stiffen. Use it earlier, right after pulling up the walls. If none of these solve the problem, seek feedback from an experienced potter or watch tutorial videos to see the technique in action. Sometimes a small adjustment in hand position or pressure can make a big difference.

From Wonky Planet to Functional Art: Your Next Steps

You've learned why your first clay pot looks like a wonky planet, how a simple water glass can fix it, and the core principles of symmetry. Now it's time to put this knowledge into action. The journey from beginner to confident potter is a series of small, deliberate steps. Each pot you throw teaches you something, even if it ends up recycled. The key is to keep going, to embrace imperfection as part of the learning process, and to use tools like the water glass to accelerate your progress. In this final section, we'll summarize the key takeaways and give you a concrete action plan for your next session at the wheel.

Your Action Plan for the Next Pottery Session

1. Prepare your space and clay. Wedge your clay thoroughly (at least 5 minutes). Set up your water glass, a sponge, a bowl of water, and a needle tool. 2. Center with intention. Spend extra time centering until the clay spins without wobble. Use your whole body, not just your arms. 3. Open the clay. Leave a flat bottom about 1/4 inch thick. 4. Pull up the walls halfway. Stop the wheel and use the water glass to check symmetry. Gently press the glass against the walls, rotating the pot. Adjust any bulges or thin spots. 5. Pull up to full height. Repeat the water glass check. 6. Shape the rim. Use a sponge to smooth the rim and compress it. 7. Final check. Use the water glass one more time, then remove the pot from the wheel using a wire cutter. 8. Reflect. After the session, note what worked and what didn't in your practice journal. Did you rush? Did you forget to check the bottom? Use these notes to improve next time.

Remember, the goal is not perfection on the first try. The goal is to learn something new each session. The water glass is your ally in this learning process. It provides objective feedback that your hands can't yet give you. Over time, your hands will learn to feel evenness without the glass, and you'll be able to throw symmetrical pots with confidence. But even then, don't hesitate to use the glass for a quick check. It's a tool, and tools are meant to be used.

Embrace the Journey

Pottery is a craft that rewards patience and persistence. Every potter, no matter how skilled, still has days when things don't go as planned. The difference is that experienced potters know how to diagnose and fix problems quickly. You now have that diagnostic tool—the water glass—and the knowledge of why it works. Use it, practice it, and soon your wonky planets will become rare exceptions rather than the rule. The joy of pottery is in the process: the feel of the clay, the focus it requires, and the satisfaction of creating something with your hands. So go ahead, get your hands dirty, and let the water glass guide you. Your next pot might just be the roundest one yet. And if it's not, that's okay too. You'll know exactly how to fix it.